The Skeleton Coast lies north of Swakopmund and is as bleak and remote a stretch of coast as you have ever imagined. HAPPY FISHING TIMES  INDEED.

Despite a colony of almost 250,000 seals found at Cape Cross, angling along this coastline is still worth your while.

You will also find the Diago Cäo cross planted here at Cape Cross in 1486.

Shore angling is permitted there, but there are regulations restricting the quantities of the various species of fish that may be caught and transported, as well as bait that may be used.
Obtain fishing permits and information on quantities and species from the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources in Swakopmund.
Please obey these rules and regulations, and be forewarned of roadblocks to check the contents of your vehicle.
It is also advisable to have the ownership certificate of your vehicle at hand.

Our visit to Terrace Bay took us over mountains, along rivers and through dry deserts with enormous dunes like prehistoric reptiles slipping into the cold Atlantic Ocean.
One encounters wild animals, fossil plants, rock art paintings and haunting skeletons in this diverse land.
The vastness of the Namib together with the desperate dryness makes you wonder how anything can survive here.
The modern cities and buzzing industries are in sharp contrast to the lonely coast.

On the banks of the Orange
We left from Cape Town and traveled along the N7 with a border crossing at Vioolsdrift/Noordoewer at the Orange River.
We spent our first night on the banks of the river at one of the many campsites on both sides of the river.
This piece of paradise is food for the soul.
There is little luxury, but the simplicity of it all is pure magic.
It provides a lot of fun to take a canoe or rubber duck on the river and catch some Yellow fish or other fresh water fish for the dinner table.
The braai facilities at these sites are well equipped.

The Orange River valley is a fertile agricultural haven. We obtained fabulous fresh vegetables from one of the farmers. Brinjals, tomatoes, unions, peppers and potatoes complemented the supper.

At Quiver tree forest
Our second night was spent at the Quiver tree forest outside Keetmanshoop. The Quiver tree is actually an aloe plant and is one of the most interesting and characteristic plants of the arid, hot, dry and desolate parts of the country. These plants usually grow singly but in some areas they grow in large groups, giving the effect of a forest.
The Afrikaans name is “Kokerboom”, because some Bushmen tribes used the tough, pliable bark and branches to make quivers for their arrows.
“Koker” is the Afrikaans word for quiver.
The trees in this forest are natural and some of the large ones are almost 300 years old. They propagate only by seeds and bloom their first flower after more than 20 years. The flowering season is in the winter during June and July, and the flowers are branch panicles with a bright yellow colour.
For the ardent photographer the golden sunset backdrop in this forest will provide pictures to treasure forever.

Terrace Bay is a small tourist resort tucked away in the most northwestern corner of the Skeleton Coast Park of Namibia.
The climate here is prevailing westerly winds and thick fog. Weather conditions can change very rapidly.
Comfortable bungalows are available all year round, with a restaurant and bar to cater for your needs. There is also a small shop and recreation area.

The entire camp can only accommodate 40 people.
Advance bookings are essential.
Fuel is available, and for the more adventurous anglers there is an airport strip for landing.

The route from Swakopmund to Terrace Bay takes you past the skeleton of an exhausted oilrig to the natural underground river where fresh water is in abundance and being pumped to the resort for daily use.

At Springbokwater you can take a short walk in die desert and may be lucky enough to spot Oryx and Springbok.

The Galjoen
We went in search of the Galjoen. [Dichistius capensis]
Even naming this fish makes a story worth reading.
The International Commission of Zoological Nomenclature is responsible for scientific classification and these two names come from Greek or Latin and never changes.
The first name is always spelt with a capital and indicates the characteristics and form of the fish.
The second name is in lower case and indicates a species or area of origin – in this case the Cape.

Legend will have it that the name is derived from “galeón” - the Spanish battle ships transporting precious stones and metal from Peruvian and Mexican mines during the 15th century, thus the association with strong fighting qualities. Galjoen is endemic to Namibia and South Africa and as the Springbok is our national fauna and the Protea our national flora, Galjoen is our national fish.

Generally the Galjoen is a shy feeder and not so easily caught.
It is active at high tide and prefers rocky environment and shallow waters with lots of movement.
It has a small mouth and is an exceptionally strong swimmer that puts up an excellent fight.

The flesh is considered a delicacy, although it may not look so, because of the black veins running through it.
Because of the veins it is essential to bleed the Galjoen after it has been caught. One does this by cutting through the isthmus that joins the body to the underside of the head.
Galjoen does not cater for all tastes, but those who love it, will tell you it is a delicacy. The nutritional value is very high in Omega 3 oil.
It is not a dish for fancy trimmings and sauces.
A special way to prepare it is on an open fire braai.
It need not be scaled, though of course the intestines must be removed, preferably straight after the fish is caught.
Most people cut the galjoen open along the back and ‘butterfly’ it, leaving the two sides joined along the stomach side.
Clean it thoroughly under running water and salt lightly, then seal the flesh side first for a few minutes on the coals.
The grill must be one that can be closed.
Keep turning over to cook altogether for 10 – 12 minutes on both sides, for a fish of + 1.5 kg.
You can sprinkle coarse salt on the scales to prevent them from sticking to the grid.
Serve the Galjoen with fresh lemon.

Galjoen will bite on red bait, white and black mussel, crabmeat and crayfish.
Collecting, preparing and storing all these different baits are all part of such an expedition.
A keen fisherman will know where and when to collect mussels or you can get hints and tips from any local tackle shop.
Make sure that you carry a tide table with you, which are available from tackle shops or fuel stations.
Freezing facilities are available at Terrace Bay.
It is useful to know that a few gillies are available to help you find the right fishing spot and cleaning your catch of the day, should you prefer to gaze into the sunset from your stoep with a cold drink.

It will be silly to compare the costs of this exercise to the value and quantities that you actually catch. The difference could easily be 3,000%! Galjoen is not a commercial fish and you are not allowed to catch unrestricted.
Take in consideration that most of your running costs will be spent on fuel. Prices fluctuate from season to season.
The rest of your budget will be spent on reels, rods, hooks, lines, sinkers, bait, oilskins, accommodation, groceries and booze, just to mention a few.
A luxury such as a 4x4 vehicle can also be added.

Angling circumstances depend on factors such as water temperature, water colour, wind directions, tides and various other elements.
When the icy cold westerly wind blows from the sea, it is a struggle to get the bait on your hook, not to mention casting.
The east wind brings the sandstorms from the Namib. This is when I catch all my Galjoen.
Thick fog is most of the time present, but you will get a few hours of sunshine. Be sure to have sun block for a sunny day.
The ideal angling for Galjoen starts with the contents of your bait box.
My experience is that you need a nice seafood platter on your menu.
Just try anything, anytime and see what works for you.

I wish you luck and lots of happy hours waiting for that big one to bite.
I have encountered Galjoen of over 3.5 kg and more than half a metre long.

HAPPY FISHING