Like an “I’ve tamed Van Zyl’s Pass” bumper sticker or a mud-splattered winch, auxiliary lights can seriously up your street (or should that be campsite?) cred. And it could make you think you are Kingsley Holgate’s natural successor. 
But standard lights are adequate most of the time and for most general purposes.
So do you really need auxiliary lights on your 4x4?
That depends: The two instances where it will definitely make a difference are if you do a lot of high-speed driving at night, especially on roads where there’s a chance of hitting animals or potholes, or for night-time off-roading, where a bigger, brighter pool of light will reduce the chances of getting cross-axled in a donga.
Also keep in mind that auxiliary lights are not the cheapest 4x4 accessory, although the price is a good indication of the performance and quality of an auxiliary light.
Yes, you do pay more for certain brand names, but the more expensive a light, the better the technology, materials and construction. Depending on how much off-roading you do and how hard you plan to work the lights, this may or may not be important to you.

The bottom line: if you want the toughest and the brightest, you’ll have to reach deeper into your pocket.

Spot, or not?
Strictly speaking, a “spotlight” is a particular type of auxiliary light that produces a thin, far-reaching beam (for this reason it’s also called a pencil beam). You also get driving lights, flood lights and fog lights, each of which has a distinct application, but which most of us just lump together as “spotlights”.

The nuts and bolts of lights

Here’s a breakdown of the tables on the next few pages. It will also give you a good indication of important things to think about when buying auxiliary lights.

Type.

Make sure you select the right spotlight for your needs.

1. Pencil beam (spotlight):
These have clear front lenses and specially designed reflectors that project a thinner beam over a great distance. Pencil beams are really for rally drivers, or guys who like to think they’re rally drivers.

2. Driving light:
Look closely at the lens and you’ll notice what looks like ridges or ripples. These are prisms that disperse the light, making the beam’s radius considerably larger and illuminating a wider area.
A driving light’s beam may not reach as far as a pencil beam’s, but it does provide a more useful light for driving, illuminating not only the road ahead but also the sides of the road.
Hint: If you can’t choose between a pencil beam and driving light, go for a combination. Some manufacturers sell individual lights so you can fit one pencil beam and one driving light (provided the wattage of the bulbs is the same).

3. Fog light:
In fog the beam of standard lights reflects off the water particles, dazzling the driver. Although there’s not much call for them in South Africa, dedicated fog lights can be a big help in misty (or dusty) conditions.
The key is that they are positioned as low down as possible so that they shine below the fog. Amber lenses work better than clear ones since the wavelength of yellow light isn’t as easily scattered by small particles.

4. Flood light:
With their rippled lenses these look a lot like driving lights, except that the prisms are even more pronounced, providing a much more dispersed pool of light. The beam penetration is poor, so they’re not much good for driving, but as a work light mounted to the roof rack they work a charm.

Shape.

As a rule of thumb, choose a round case for pencil beams (the shape of the parabolic reflector is very important here) and a rectangular or square case for driving lights (the shape apparently helps spread the beam better).
But because of space issues and aesthetics it’s not always possible to stick to this. For this reason manufacturers normally give you a choice of both.

Size.

Some auxiliary lights just won’t fit on your 4x4. Pencil beams, particularly, often have deep parabolic reflectors, making it impossible to mount them on a standard bumper.
The solution? Choose a smaller light, or fit an aftermarket bumper or bull bar. Lights with a large lens can also be problematic, obstructing the flow of air to the engine. Ask your 4x4 shop or fitment centre for guidance here.

Bulb type.

Halogen bulbs are the norm, but some manufacturers also offer a high-intensity discharge (HID) Xenon option. These are more expensive (a lot more!), but provide a much whiter beam that’s more like daylight. Not only is this better in terms of clarity and visibility, it’s also less stressful on your eyes. And just like compact fluorescent bulbs at home, HID lights are also more energy efficient.

Bulb strength.

Bulbs are rated in watts (W) and the most common are 55W, 100W and 130W. While a higher wattage is normally an indication of a more powerful light, other factors, such as the design of the lens and the quality of the reflector, can mean that lights with a lower watt rating sometimes outshine more powerful ones.

Lens material.

Toughened glass is the norm because it can withstand the high temperatures generated by the bulb. Its major drawback is that it just takes one stone to shatter the lens. This is why some manufacturers are using Lexan (a special shatterproof polycarbonate resin used in the visors of Formula One helmets and space suits) as an alternative. But they are more expensive and you’ll only find it used on premium models.

Case material.

Metal is by far the most common and you can choose between coated steel (the cheapest), stainless steel (more expensive, but worth it if you live near the coast) and, in some instances, aluminium (which is lighter but more expensive).
You also get polycarbonate models, which don’t dent or chip as easily as metal, and, in rare cases, carbon fibre, which is incredibly light and strong, but costs an arm and a leg.

Wiring loom.

In instances where the fitment centre can use existing wiring in the vehicle the lack of a wiring loom isn’t a problem, but more often than not they’ll need to make up a special loom to handle the higher wattage, and this adds extra time and expense to the job.

Optional extras / special features.

Handy extras include clear plastic covers, which provide stone protection without blocking the beam, and lock nuts so your spotlights don’t grow legs. 

Price.

Generally, the more expensive a light, the better the technology, materials and construction. So, if you want the toughest and the brightest, you’ll have to reach deep into your pocket.

Did you know this about lights?

It’s the law.
By law, you may not drive with any light rated above 55 watt. So why are we recommending you buy auxiliary lights rated to 100 watt or more?
The point is that they’re only meant for off-road use. That’s why most auxiliary lights are supplied with plastic covers for driving around town. Fitting lights above bonnet level is also illegal, so while installing a row of auxiliary lights Camel-Trophy-style to the roll bar might look impressive, it’s prohibited.

The battery’s dead…
Running high-powered auxiliary lights off your battery shouldn’t cause you too many worries most of the time. Although you’ll need a jump start in the morning if you’ve left your 170 W lamps burning overnight, the alternator should provide sufficient grunt while you’re on the road. But if you’re simultaneously running numerous power-hungry devices such as fridges and air-conditioning, your alternator might not be able to keep the pace. Your 4x4 fitment centre should be able to advise you on this.

What’s that smell?
Depending on how long it takes you to realise your mistake, the plastic covers could melt onto the lens if you turn the lights on before removing the cover.

What’s that noise?
Depending on how big they are and how they’re mounted, spots can effectively make your 4x4 longer. Watch out for crunching them into the garage wall or workbench when parking.