WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO GO?
From the winter school holidays to about September the park is dry and cooler, and there is more game. In the green season (November to April), the park can become impassable because of heavy rainfall. But that’s also when huge herds of elephant gather and many more bird species can be spotted.

WHAT CAN I SEE AND DO?
The park is about half the size of the Kruger National Park, has more than 100 species of mammals and is home to more than 400 of Zambia’s 700 bird species,
100 000 elephants and lots of game.

What on earth is that?
You are likely to see some unique animals, like Thornicroft’s giraffe, Cookson’s wildebeest (the ordinary blue wildebeest is actually black, while this one is brown) and the yellow or golden baboon (characterised by a yellowish-brown colour).

Old Big Mouth. There are reportedly 50 hippos for every kilometre of the
Luangwa River in the park – one of the world’s densest hippo populations.  

Here’s your chance to take that photo of a yawning hippo.

Spotting Old Spotty. South Luangwa claims that it has the densest leopard population in the world.

Walking tours. The first organised walking safaris originated here and almost all the lodges offer some form of walking safari which cost about US$40 (R300*) per person. An armed guide accompanies you and the outing takes about four hours.

Hop on and enjoy the ride. Lodge and camp owners all have concessions to take visitors into the park for game viewing – the evening drives are well worth it. A drive will cost you around US$40.

Your own game drives. You can buy a map with all the different routes at the park gates, which clearly indicates which roads are safe for 4x2s and which should only be tackled in a 4x4.

WHERE CAN I STAY?
There are a number of expensive lodges in the park, but no camp sites.
Just outside the park, on the eastern side of the Luangwa River, there is a host of private overnight spots to choose from.

A short distance from the park’s main gate, you’ll find a horde of signboards advertising the various camps. We chose Croc Valley Camp (about 1.5 km from the park gate) after their sign caught our eye: Afrikaners is plesierig (Afrikaners are jolly). Camping here is US$5-7 p.p.p.n.

There are no fences between the camp and the rest of the park and lion, hyena, elephant and hippo wander through the camp. During our visit, lions were roaring from three different directions and the hyenas also paid us a visit.

HOW DO I GET THERE?
South Luangwa is about 700 km northeast of Lusaka along the Great East Road. We drove from Pretoria to the Martins Drift border post in Botswana. It’s another 800 km to Kasane in the north.

From Kasane you take the ferry across the Zambezi River into Zambia.
From there it’s 500 km to Lusaka and from Lusaka it’s another 550 km to Chipata, the gateway to the park. From Chipata to the park is another 160 km.

WHAT ARE THE ROADS LIKE?
From Nata to Pandamatenga in Botswana the tar road is riddled with potholes, but further on up to Kasane, it’s fairly good.

There’s a good tar road to Livingstone, but from Livingstone to Zimba there are a fair number of potholes. From Zimba to Lusaka it’s reasonably good again.

From Lusaka to Chipata it’s not too bad, except for the last 40 km stretch before Chipata which is the worst we’ve ever encountered because of all the potholes.

The 160 km of dirt road between Chipata and South Luangwa varies between being good and bad enough to demand cautious driving.

Remember: every village in Zambia has a number of large speed bumps – drive slowly to avoid damaging your chassis. And drive slower than 60 km/h in the villages or you’ll be fined.

THINGS TO DO ON THE WAY?
Visit the Nata Bird Reserve or the Makgadikgadi Pans. From there you drive through the Chobe Forest where you can expect game. In Kasane, take a trip to the Victoria Falls and enjoy a boat ride on the Chobe River.

WHERE CAN I OVERNIGHT?
We always stay at the Nata Lodge on the first night. It has a restaurant, bar and swimming pool. But don’t drink the water – it has a sulphur taste and will upset your stomach, although it’s pleasant to shower in.

Then we usually overnight at the Toro Safari Lodge in Kasane, which has basically the same amenities. The water is drinkable and it’s the first stop along this route which is equipped with 220 V power.

There are a number of good camp sites to choose from in Livingstone: the Zambezi Waterfront Lodge, the Maramba River Lodge, the Bushfront Lodge and the Taita Falcon Lodge, which have lovely views over the ravine beyond the Victoria Falls.

Closer to Lusaka we stay at Pioneer Camp. Camping costs between R50 and R140 per person per night.

HOW MUCH TIME DO I NEED?
Allow for at least four days in the park, and at least 16 days for the complete tour.

WHAT SHOULD I TAKE?
Bear in mind the golden rule: take as little as possible, but as much as necessary.  Be self-sufficient, but pack light foodstuffs, because the water and fuel will add to your weight. You can buy fresh meat (and other foodstuff) at Spars in Botswana (Palapye, Kasane and Francistown) or in Livingstone in Zambia.

CASH OR CARD?
In Botswana you can use your cards in just about any big town but in Zambia they will probably be useless outside Livingstone and Lusaka – rather take cash.

PASSPORTS / VISAS?
South Africans need a passport for both Botswana and Zambia but not a visa.

BORDER POST TIPS?
Be patient.

Border fees? In Botswana you’ll have to buy a permit for your vehicle, approximately 90 pulas (about R110). When you’re towing something, you pay another P90. In Zambia everything is more expensive: the ferry across the Zambezi costs US$20 (about R150*) per crossing, “hello” tax is about R20, emission tax is in the region of R400 per 4x4, road tax is approximately R400, third party insurance another R400 and on the way back you pay “goodbye” tax of R20, as well as the cost of the return journey on the ferry.

Can I pay in rands? In Botswana they sometimes accept rands, but rather take pula. In Zambia you have to pay in kwacha, especially the emission tax.

Is this yours, Sir? Make sure you take copies of your vehicle’s registration papers or get a “border letter” from your bank (if you are still paying off your vehicle) that will authorise you to take it across borders. Also take proof that the vehicle is insured and don’t forget your trailer’s papers.

MALARIA?
It’s malaria country, so take the necessary precautions.

*Calculated at an average exchange rate of USA$1 = R7.50 and R1 = ZK545.