The road through the Baviaanskloof is one of those routes that tests your vehicle to the hilt. Featuring unparalleled scenery, it runs through one of South Africa’s last untamed wilderness areas. However, when the rivers are in flood, the road becomes even more difficult to negotiate.
Deep drifts, steep ascents and descents with big dongas and many unpredictable road surfaces are among the challenges you have to overcome.

Two friends, Frans Smit and Pieter Mouton, and I regularly go off-roading on our adventure motorbikes. Another friend, Ricus Serfontein, rides a Harley-Davidson, and when we guyed a while back that it was a pity he couldn’t explore the country’s off-road routes with us, he took it to heart.

It planted the seed for a challenge, and some time later, we were invited to ride through Baviaans, with him, on his Harley. What started as joke was about to become a reality …

In another world

We start our epic journey on 11 June at Mossel Bay on two BMW 1200 GS’es, a Yamaha 660 Ténéré and Ricus’ Harley-Davidson Fat Boy.

Initially, we stick to the tar, turning off the N2 in one or two places. Without any hitches, we reach Patensie that evening where we spend the night because we’ve decided to ride through the Baviaanskloof from east to west. (If the Harley couldn’t make it through, the way back to the tar road would be shorter.)

Early Saturday morning we tackle the Baviaans in earnest. It’s a beautiful morning, ideal motor-biking weather, and from the first moment the surroundings are overwhelming. We are as excited as kids.

When we stop after about 10 km Ricus laments the amount of dust and mud collecting on his Harley. After some consolation from the other three “experienced gravel riders”, we start off again. After all, how bad can it be? Little did we know what lay ahead …

After riding through the reserve gate at Komdomo, we come across the first uphills. At one point, I start doubting the wisdom of our decision, and we three “off-road riders” exchange some smart-alecky looks and merely shake our heads about this noisy affair that is so close to the ground, in some places it barely makes it over the holes, stones and rocks.

Slowly but surely, we make it up the Combrink’s Pass, stopping often to take in the views. (Or should I rather say, because we’re so exhausted from clinging to the handles?)

Blind corners and yawning drops wait ominously all around you, almost as if inviting you to throw yourself down its deep throat.

A few times, we have close shaves with approaching vehicles, but eventually we reach the mountaintop. Looking out over rolling grassy plains after stopping beyond the Bergplaas turnoff, it suddenly feels as if we’re in another world.

Descending the pass however, is a very different story. Although the road has obviously been worked on, we still battle to avoid the holes and to drive on the more level part of the road.

Meanwhile, you have to steer clear of the deep drops and avoid the loose stones – while you’re also supposed to be marvelling at the scenery!
Riding the lightest motorbike of the four, I’m battling to keep control of it. However, I can’t let the side down – what would it make us “adventure riders” look like if I had to admit to Ricus that I was battling?

Nevertheless, before we know it, and much sooner than we expected, we reach the bottom. Here we find some 4x4 vehicles, the occupants of which stare in amazement at the Fat Boy spectacle. (I was secretly more worried about some of them.)