Between heaven and earth | Marcus who?

Marcuskraal 4x4 near Citrusdal in the Western Cape isn’t a trail for the budget-minded, but you get what you pay for, writes Philip Sackville-Scott.
“So, who was Marcus and why is his kraal famous?” I ask Krisjan as he is checking the campsite. He is marching around, scouring the ground for litter and stompies after the last guests have left.
Krisjan Mouton, the owner, is the sixth-generation Mouton to farm this land, so I figure he should know. The name, he says, comes from the old days of ox-wagon transport, when kraals were scattered along the main convoy routes. They were places where livestock could be kept safely for a few days. A certain Marcus was the owner of such a kraal, close to the bush camp on the farm.
I am at Marcuskraal 4x4, two hours from Cape Town near Citrusdal. It sits in a great place, between the western slopes of the Cederberg and the Sandveld as it runs off towards Elands Bay in the west.
I’ve just arrived and I am already impressed. Everything - from their website and the handling of the booking inquiry to the warm welcome and the owners’ attitude - has been spot-on.

Sign here…
Before we head out, we meet at the farmhouse reception for a briefing. We sign the indemnity forms and deflate the tyres for off-roading while maps are handed out.
The nine checkpoints indicated on the map correlate with easily identifiable signboards.
The 24km anticlockwise trail mostly follows well-worn farm tracks, built years ago to mend fences, take fodder to livestock and to harvest rooibos and proteas.
The trail heads up the Osberg, from where you have breathtaking views all the way to Elands Bay, and past the Maanberg to a bush camp with braai facilities and running water. From there, the track descends into a sandy play-pit area before climbing the unforgiving Dwarsrug, passing a lookout point and delivering you back to a campsite.
We drive a short distance back on the entry road to the start of the trail.
At checkpoint 1, the start of the trail, we turn left off the entry road into the sandy rooibos tea plantations.
The first kilometre runs parallel to the tar road before it swings away into a slow climb as the rooibos plantations give way to thick fynbos fields. The track twists and turns though rocky outcrops, skipping between giant king proteas and ericas.
Our progress slows as we negotiate the tight turns and steep hills. On the steep, rutted descents, we have to pack rocks for the Nissan Terrano in the convoy for its diff to clear. With some spotting, we make it through without incident.
We pass the farmhouse and start climbing up the 600 m ascent to Osberg, en route to checkpoint 2. So far the tracks have varied between a 2 and 3 grading, but the steep Osberg gradient turns it into an honest 3 - until you arrive at a particularly steep, grade 4 section, with no escape route. As the loose rocks offer limited traction, you should engage your traction control or rear diff lock.
We get out and deflate our tyres a bit more before continuing.
We pass a section of smooth flat rock that is impassable when it’s wet, according to Krisjan, but there is an alternative route.
After the rock, there’s a turn-off to the lookout point, at checkpoint 3 on the summit. From the lookout point it’s clear skies all the way to Elands Bay. Back at the turnoff point, the track continues to the westernmost point of the trail at checkpoint 4.
We continue south via checkpoint 5 at the Veekraal, a disused stock pen, to checkpoint 6 at Palmietfontein se Kloof, where we turn off to a picturesque bush camp. A stream provides the soothing soundtrack for our lunch break in the shade of huge blue gums.
After lunch, we continue on grade 2 tracks past Maanberg (checkpoint 7), the route’s southernmost point.
From there, we turn north on the home stretch, back through the rooibos plantations, to the sandpit and play area. You could bypass it or play a while. The playpen tests just about every skill as it takes you through a series of deep sandy ravines and the muddy long-drop.
The route continues north past orange orchards and two dams to checkpoint 8, the start of a short, steep climb up the Dwarsrug.
The ascent on loose rocks takes you to the last checkpoint, on the edge of a cliff. As the climb has very little traction and is tough for vehicles with limited ground clearance, a bypass is provided.
With the campsite a short drive downhill, we park and watch the sun set behind the Osberg.
After the demanding day, we deserve the well-shaded stands on lush lawn and the prospect of a hot shower in the newly built ablutions.
Drive Out says: We recommend you make a weekend out of it. You won’t regret spending an extra night to soak in the surroundings.
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Table of Contents:
- Between heaven and earth | Marcus who?
- Pg. 2 | What you should know
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Comments
Looks like the Nissan Terrano has some good reliability! This is one of my fave mid-sized SUV's it may be small but the engine is just as powerful like the Nissan Patrol but smaller. For sure it has waterproof Nissan Truck Wiring Adapters in case the vehicle runs on muddy terrains.
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