Baviaanskloof | Into the Valley of Baboons

There’s a legion of reasons why you should visit the Baviaanskloof (or the Kloof, as the residents call it) – Barnie Louw gives 14.

The Baviaanskloof between Willowmore and Patensie, someone once said, is best described as a blend of the Sani and Bloukrans passes with a stiff dose of the Tsitsikamma and Kruger National Park’s natural beauty, and a sprinkling of Herman Charles Bosman characters.

This is true, but don’t forget the baboons, the “tigers” (Cape mountain leopard), donkeys, little drifts, floods, the wide open spaces and the tranquillity. Or the sense of seclusion, and the feeling that they do things differently here in the Kloof.

However you wish to describe the Kloof, it’s a great place. The question is not whether you should go, but when.

A quick guide to the Kloof (from west to east)

Nuwekloof Pass.
This deep split in the sandstone cliffs marks the western entrance to the Kloof. Model T Fords apparently had to travel up the pass in reverse.

Uitspan.
The only tyre-repair facility in the Kloof is on this farm. Nico Smith is the man in charge.

Rietrivier.
Boetie and Henriëtte Terblanche of Rietrivier Info can tell you everything you need to know about the Kloof.

Studtis.
The birthplace of the Afrikaans writer PH Nortjé. His books deal with the bittersweet of life in the Kloof. The house where he was born is still standing: big, empty and deserted.

Studtis

Kleinpoort.
Lukas and Aletta Smit’s Kleinpoort Dealer is the only shop to speak of in the Kloof. There is also a bottle store and fuel pumps.

Zandvlakte.
The former prime minister JG Strijdom grew up on this farm, more or less in the middle of the Kloof. In 1935 the former Labour Party leader Allan Hendrickse’s father founded a Congregational Church there.

Geelhoutbos.
This popular campsite between white stinkwood trees, wild fig trees and Outeniqua yellowwoods is closed for renovations.

Grasnek Pass.
From the top of this gentle pass you get a good indication of the Kloof’s wildness and unspoilt nature.

Smitskraal.
This is really a picnic spot in name only. There is usually a long river crossing just beyond it − beware of the holes in the submerged cement tracks.

Rooihoek.
Its location makes it one of the most impressive campsites in the country.

Doodsklip.
The short section from Rooihoek to Doodsklip campsite is quite bumpy. However, the route beyond Doodsklip to the Holgat Pass is one of the most beautiful parts of the Kloof, despite being in a bad condition.

Holgat Pass.

This long, steep pass is also narrow and uneven. Eroded ditches and rocky banks will keep you on the edge of your seat − the Kloof’s Sani Pass − but at least there is a good view from the top.

Cableway.
At the top of the pass there is a cableway a farmer built in 1965 to get supplies across a deep poort instead of having to travel the Holgat Pass.

Cableway

Pisgoedvlakte/Bergplaas.
Right at the top of the Holgat Pass the Pisgoedvlakte/Bergplaas grass and fynbos plateau is so flat you may think you are through the Kloof. Incidentally, “pisgoed” refers to the Euphorbia epicyparissias bush that is believed to cause bladder problems among cattle.

Combrink’s Pass.
This nerve-racking pass that spits you out in the Gamtoos Valley is long, winding and washed away in places (the last part on the Patensie side has been restored). The view from the top stretches across three mountain ranges. Keep an eye out for the pass’s dry brickwork.

Combrink's Pass

Poortjies.
The Combrink’s Pass descends into this Knysna-like poort with its many yellowwood trees and old man’s beard. You cross the White River a dozen times here and the road becomes much better.

Groot River Poort.
Follow the course of the Groot River through the poort.

Komdomo.
Congratulations! You have made it through the Kloof.

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